Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
